{"id":23624,"date":"2026-04-20T13:51:55","date_gmt":"2026-04-20T13:51:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bergundsteigen.com\/artikel\/lead-rope-solo-gesichertes-freiklettern\/"},"modified":"2026-05-06T12:21:41","modified_gmt":"2026-05-06T12:21:41","slug":"lead-rope-solo-howto","status":"publish","type":"artikel","link":"https:\/\/www.bergundsteigen.com\/en\/artikel\/lead-rope-solo-howto\/","title":{"rendered":"How To: Lead Rope Solo"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A proven method for lead rope soloing near your free climbing limit<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Lead soloing solves a problem that we all have – sometimes a partner just doesn\u2019t line up for your specific objective or time window. But also, the freedom and self-sufficiency required to go for a big climb alone create their own unique experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This desire for big adventures in solitude has been a common path for many climbers – decades of aid solos on El Cap are a clear example. This aid soloing allows two free hands to manage the self belay systems, so even rudimentary knot shuffling can work. But our modern version of redpointing free climbs, specifically, means the system must flow smoothly and only ever require one hand to manage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Grigri+
Fig. 1: Grigri+ with a chest harness and a thin rope, \u201cturned upside down and held upright.\u201d<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

General Premise:<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A high performance lead solo free climbing system self-feeds while you climb, with only occasional one hand management every few body lengths. This self-feeding comes by managing free side rope weight with a \u201ccache loop\u201d. If using a GriGri (or mis-using, rather – this is off label usage!) as your primary solo belay device, this is the “brake” strand of the rope. The full dangling free rope weights the device, it will lock up in place and prevent movement. But, if the climber maintains a smaller \u201ccache loop\u201d of a few meters of free rope hanging down will pull smoothly through the device.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When setting off on the pitch, the rope end is fixed at the lower anchor, and the belay device is oriented as if you were rappelling upward with sufficient free rope to reach the next anchor. Gear and\/or rbolts are clipped into the “protection strand” of the rope while ascending, allowing a relatively normal lead climbing experience. The cache loop is occasionally tended with one hand to maintain the free rope needed to free climb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Primary Belay Devices:<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The System: GriGri+ Held Upwards & Upside-Down:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The stock GriGri+ works really well for Lead Rope Soloing, if Held Upwards and Upside-Down (HUUD) with a chest harness (Fig.1). In this orientation, the rope creates a smooth single bend between the protection side and free side of the rope. The smoother the bend, the easier the auto-feeding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This can be achieved without modifying the GriGri by tying a small ~2mm cord around the sideplate pivot point and through the body side of the carabiner hole, as shown below (Fig. 2). This cord does sit inside the rope path and may wear out, especially while rappelling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Grigri<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Grigri<\/figure>\n
Fig. 2: Grigri+, prepared with a lanyard for positioning during LRS.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Top Rope Mode of a GriGri+ is helpful to the lead soloing because it reduces the threshold for cam engagement. This means a more reliable catch in our off label usage scenario.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The GriGri should be held up relatively tight with the clip-in loop described above, as snug as possible without impeding upper body mobility. A rigid chest harness gives a more positive hold for feeding down slack, needing less slack pumps per clip, but some prefer the comfort of a stiff bungee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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ATTENTION:<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

It is of significance to note – THIS SYSTEM LIKELY WILL NOT CATCH UPSIDE-DOWN FALLS! Always use backup knots. This system also relies on clear misuse of climbing devices, so you must conduct your own personal risk assessment. Always re-check each device and attachment before setting off.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

GriGri Carabiner Crossload Protection:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Carabiner crossloading becomes a risk of the GriGri or any other self belay devices with one connector point. (This is true with all belay devices used in partnered belaying, but lead soloing forces can be higher if falling directly onto a fixed rope point).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Safety
Fig. 3: Safety carabiner with a built-in anti-twist mechanism at the bottom and the Avant Flex-Link, a device-mounted anti-twist mechanism, at the top.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The risk of a crossloaded GriGri carabiner exploding can be mitigated by using a modern belay biner with a captive feature (Edelrid FG, BD Gridlock, DMM Ceros, etc). It can be reduced further yet by using a device-side crossload protector such as the Avant Flex-Link<\/a> (Fig. 3). With these redundant crossload limiters, an aluminum bodied carabiner is protected from weak loading orientations. But some climbers use industrial steel carabiners, or steel malions even, for further peace of mind at this primary connector. And, it is certainly worth a foolproof locking gate such as a triple action twist lock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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