People may be surprised to learn that Antarctic tourism began back in the late 1960s with customers being sold places on the cruise ship Lindblad Explorer to see the sights of the Antarctic Peninsula, though a tiny number of people had paid to go on whaling vessels to nearby islands decades before that. It was in the 1990s that ship-borne Antarctic tourism really grew, with a number of suitable ice-strengthened vessels becoming available for business after the breakup of the Soviet Union. These relatively small (50-100 passengers) but capable ships formed the basis of modern Antarctic ship tourism but have since been superseded by more modern, and mostly much larger, vessels.

Regulating Antarctic tourism and its challenges

The International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), a body for self-regulation by tourism companies, was formed in 1991 and has had a presence at Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meetings since 1992. IAATO provides a structure to promote standards and guidelines so that private-sector Antarctic operators can visit Antarctica in a safe and environmentally sound way. However in following decades ship tourist numbers would hit 30,000, then 50,000 each season, most of these ships were leaving from Ushuaia in Argentina or Punta Arenas in Chile, and provided a major boost to the economies of those gateway cities.

In the 2019-20 Antarctic season over 70,000 tourists visited Antarctica, still mostly on ships sightseeing and wildlife-watching along the Antarctic Peninsula, then in the 2023-24 season the total number surpassed 100,000 for the first time. The size and speed of this growth, in mainly shipborne tourists, since around 2015 has been an increasingly contentious issue, both in Antarctic governance circles, and in the general media, with a general concern that it has simply become too much and something might need to change. Geofencing areas in some of the most popular areas like the Gerlache Strait and the South Shetland Islands. The timing, duration and speed of ship movements here is controlled, partly so that multiple ships are at the same site, but also to minimise impact on whales, particularly early in the season.

Beyond sightseeing cruises

As a contrast to the ship cruises, fewer than 1,000 people flew deeper into the continent each summer season for such adventures as climbing Mt. Vinson (4892m), skiing a thousand kilometres to the South Pole or doing other activities from well-resourced commercial camps in either the Ellsworth Mountains or Queen Maud Land. Such flights go from Punta Arenas in Chile and to a lesser extent, Cape Town,  South Africa. The primary supplier of such inland expeditions is the US-based company Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions, a successor to Adventure Network International (ANI) which used private aircraft to open up Vinson and the South Pole to clients in the mid-1980s. ALE now offers considerable support to various government Antarctic programs as well, an indicator of how authorities’ views and acceptance of Antarctic tourism have improved over the years. Along with cruise tourists, Mount Vinson attracts adventure seekers.

Vinson & the Ellsworth Mountains

Guiding has been intrinsic to Vinson climbing since the area was opened up in the mid-80s. Though the 1966 first, and 1979 second, ascents of Vinson were by government-supported climbers, the great expense of launching a private operation to Vinson in the 1980s meant that affluent enthusiasts were needed to cover the costs, and such mountaineers often need guides. Aside from a few sponsored or wealthy professional climbers such as Junko Tabei, Yvon Chouinard, Reinhold Messner etc, many of the climbers on Vinson in the 90s were the early Seven Summiter chasers and many of their guides were also founders of modern Himalayan guiding – Ralf Dujmovits, Skip Horner, Phil Ershler, David Hamilton, Rob Hall, Guy Cotter, Dave Hahn, Vern Tejas.

The numbers of people climbing Mt. Vinson each summer rose steadily from a couple of dozen in the early 90s to around 150 in the 2010s, though it has been as high as 200 in some seasons and the total number to have summited is now more than 5,000. ALE generally runs five tranches or groups, each of around 30 climbers and guides, who each fly in for round 12 days total on the ice. Some of these are direct clients of ALE and the rest are customers of US, UK and European guiding companies. Almost all climbers every season are guided on Vinson, and all on the normal route, though independent non-guided trips to the range are still possible for teams of three or more suitably experienced and skilled alpinists, whose climbing plans can be supported by ALE’s operations.

The normal route

The normal route on Vinson’s western side is technically quite easy, though the first stretch of pulling a loaded sled east then north up the Branscomb Glacier for half a day, from the 2100 m base camp to Low Camp, tests many clients unused to the technique. The next section up to High Camp at 3700 m now follows the left edge of a broad icy snow slope which is fixed with section of sturdy rope each season by ALE staff, and teams often do a carry up this section before moving up the next day.

The route may be easy at first, but hauling a loaded sled pushes newcomers to their limits

From High Camp, nestled behind a ridge at the top of the face, the route follows a very broad and easy-angled valley southwards, with the summit pyramid indistinguishable from nearby sub-peaks. At the eastern end of the valley, before the final rise there is an emergency cache, including a stretcher, placed and maintained by ALE. The final pyramid can be approached from either the east or west sides, where the slope, often icy, steepens to join relatively narrow ridges, giving the most photogenic climbing of the ascent.

While the summit is relatively low compared to other guided trophy peaks, the effects of extreme cold and latitude mean the physiological effect on climbers is more like summiting a peak around 5200m. For this reason, many clients underestimate the time and energy needed for a return summit trip and find themselves moving more slowly than expected and quite tired back at High Camp. This increases the importance of managing the cold, particularly using quality equipment and clothing systems that have been tested all in combination before reaching the mountain. Climbing in the Sentinel Range on a calm and sunny day can feel too easy to be on a deep Antarctic expedition, but one can turn a corner into a valley, or move into a shaded area, or if the wind picks up, things go from easy to extreme in minutes. Such developments should be foreseen in advance and prepared for accordingly – add layers before getting cold, stop and eat in the sun, have spare mitts and face protection easily at hand, make sure zippers can be used wearing mitts. Getting injured or having problems with equipment can mean these regular environmental changes might become life-threatening, simply because of the extreme nature of both the temperature and remoteness.

Though the summit is low among the Seven Summits, many underestimate how the cold and high latitude affect them.

Since ALE moved their base from Patriot Hills to Union Glacier in 2009, there has been much more opportunity for climbing on the many lower peaks of the surrounding Heritage Range. These ranges can be access from Union Glacier by snow vehicles rather than needing flights, so the cost is lower and a more traditional and independent climbing experience can be had. The Heritage Range was visited by government scientists in the 1960s, 70s and 80s but many peaks remain unclimbed. The rock is not great, so most ascents are on moderate snow and ice faces and easier rock ridges.

Yacht chartes & expeditions

In the early days of Antarctic ship tourism climbers or adventurous skiers were, on a few occasions, dropped off by tourist ships then picked up again, maybe at a different location. However this was always problematic, due to the high possibility that weather or sea-ice conditions may prevent the pickup, stranding the climbers and in recent decades this has almost never been done. Any rescue of a group in trouble by government authorities would be both expensive, dangerous, a distraction from scientific work, and bad publicity for private adventurers in Antarctica. A few tourist companies do offer very minor climbs of small peaks, done in less than a day, or snowshoe ascents and IFMGA guides are understandably appreciated for such trips even if there is no regulatory mandate for them in place. One company, US-based Iceaxe Expeditions, still offers a cruise exclusively focussed on ski-mountaineering, but otherwise all major climbing or expedition groups to the Peninsula travel there by smaller (sailing) yacht.

The number of such yacht journeys fluctuates but generally there are around a dozen yachts that do at least one or two trips south a year and take 6-12 passengers each time. A couple of days must be factored into expedition itineraries at each end, to cross the Drake Passage, and plans kept flexible. For expedition climbers determined to climb in Antarctica, yachts offer the cheapest way to realize their dream, but are still relatively expensive and are a more arduous and ‘hands on’ way of reaching the continent compared to flying – wet, cold, slower, seasickness – but they do offer greater freedom and choice. As most yacht-based expeditions are a month-long charter, it means the climbers or skiers only have around three weeks of real action time and some of this will always be taken away with bad weather.

For expedition climbers, yachts are cheaper – but colder, slower, and far more hands-on than flying.

Further south for fewer tracks

For teams looking to do new things, and given the extensive history of climbing on the Peninsula, it generally means teams must sail further and further south if they want more unexplored mountain terrain. This means sailing past many beautiful and interesting mountain ranges, tempting climbers to stop and take the opportunity for a fun repeat rather than a significant first ascent. A major factor influencing where yachts can stop and put climbers ashore is a safe anchorage, so prospective climbing groups will need to discuss their objectives with their yacht skipper to make sure that there is somewhere close by and safe for the boat to spend time while the climbers are on shore. The traditional safety and protection of the Port Lockroy area is one reason for the popularity of climbing on Wiencke Island and likewise the Argentine Islands for climbing on the beautiful Mt. Scott.

The early days of Antarctic yacht-based climbing were very adventurous but also quite risky. There is not only the risk of shipwreck, injury or death, but  potentially unforeseen impacts on the environment through fuel spills, equipment failure or poor waste management. Climbers planning yacht expeditions should check that their operator is a member of IAATO and thus adheres to suitable regulations. There is a list of members here and some specific information for planning a yacht expedition here.

Glacial fronts and steep ice walls, as well as more accessible areas

Significant stretches of the shoreline of the Peninsula and islands are glacial fronts, presenting as steep crumbling ice walls that prevent easy access to the mountains behind. So flatter and more accessible areas such as rock peninsulas or small bays are sought out, which may not always be near the mountain objective, necessitating a ski journey pulling sleds. Unlike the South Pole ski trips and much of the Sentinel Range and Queen Maud Land, the glaciers of the Peninsula are very crevassed, with snow bridges softening and disappearing through the summer, so fully roped glacier travel techniques are vital. But not many climbing parties spend continuous days and nights ashore, most climbing in day trips. All parties that do venture more inland must take sufficient food, fuel and communications equipment to wait out delays the yacht may experience in coming back for them.

No helicopter, no hospital: Even a minor accident can be fatal

Guiding in Antarctica always needs to be done with a degree of caution and restraint higher than in our home ranges. The remoteness and harsh weather means even a minor accident can be both fatal and have significant political and financial ramifications. But ski mountaineering in particular must be done with care, given how the extra speed and dynamics will exacerbate a fall as well as the possibility of avalanche, which is rarely a factor in the frigid ranges of the Ellsworth Mountains and Queen Maud Land. There is no ski patrol, no helicopter rescue, no hospital ER.

South Pole ski expeditions

The first commercially organised and guided South Pole ski expedition was organised by Adventure Network International (ANI) in the 1988-89 season and involved guides on snowmobiles, light sleds, frequent air resupplies and several clients on skis. However it was only in the 1999-2000 season that pole ski expeditions began to be guided in the modern style, with no snowmobiles, heavier sleds, just one or two guides, and only one or two resupplies by air (Disclaimer: the author co-guided the second such ANI expedition in 2000-01).

Now in the last five years, around a dozen expeditions a season have skied to the pole, from either an inner or outer coastal starting point, pulling their supplies in sleds, maybe without resupplies, maybe Unsupported. Almost all of these expeditions are supported by ALE from their base at Union Glacier. A critique of pole journey start points can be read here and the recent system of classifying styles of polar journeys can be seen at the PECS site here. 

Altitude sickness and extreme cold

An increasing number of polar ski expeditions are solo, therefore unguided, but only around three or four of the group expeditions are guided. In contrast, all Last Degree expeditions are guided. These groups are flown in to 89° South and just do the last 111 km to the pole, usually in a week or so. Such short trips can be surprisingly serious, in that the members are suddenly inserted into a very cold, high place with no gradual buildup, as the longer expeditions from a coast have. Altitude sickness is a factor, in addition to the sudden extreme cold. There is also an environmental question over Last Degree trips that expeditioners should consider – whether it is justifiable to fly all that way almost to the pole, walk/ski just a little way, then take another flight to get back to the base, all in addition to the flights required to get to South American and Antarctica in the first place. The carbon footprint is large in proportion to the adventure or sporting value and such impacts are increasingly a factor in the adventure tourism business.

Managing The Future

With regard to ship-borne tourism, increased numbers mean that areas of iconic landscapes that have made the region famous – Neko Harbour, Lemaire Channel, Port Lockroy, Deception Island – may become too popular and alternatives might be sought. New areas or objectives don’t have the same ‘brand value’ as older more famous sights, so friends at dinner parties might not appreciate your holiday, but there is as much opportunity in this as obstacle, assuming that environmental and safety issues can be appropriately managed. It’s probably easier to do this for repeat-clients, of which there are quite a few on the Peninsula ships, but very few in the mountain camps of the Ellsworth Mountains or Queen Maud Land. 

Just as guides may seek alternatives to the Gouter Route on Mont Blanc, or guide the Polish Glacier on Aconcagua for suitable clients to avoid the numbers on the regular route, so guiding in Antarctica may need to change customer perceptions of what is good to do. Or to put it less romantically, companies may need to come up with new products to deliver to the market if they are to remain viable. Given a finite space and environmental impact concerns, as well as logistics, options for this may be limited and part of the answer may eventually lie in limiting numbers and operators.

Either customers’ perceptions need to be changed, or new ideas need to be promoted.

There are parallels with the growth of guided climbing on Mount Everest, with commercial interests often overpowering environmental, cultural and safety concerns, though it must be said that Antarctic tourism has managed self-regulation more successfully – so far. Even with increased media exposure and public scrutiny, similar conflicts as on Everest and the 8000ers are involved, with vested interests seemingly unable to see themselves as part of any problem – it’s always somebody else doing it wrong and causing issues. The difference with Antarctica is that there is no Nepalese, Chinese or Pakistani government departments to negotiate, and to date the solutions really are in the hands of the participants. IAATO has been mostly a success for far, but it is not mandatory to be a member in order to, for example, sail a yacht to Antarctica, and their ability for enforcement or punishment of transgressions is limited. There are also Himalayan parallels in that the experience and skill level of the average guided client has decreased significantly over the years, while their bank balance and social media skills have conversely grown. This presents challenges for both the safety and success of clients, but also for managing how expeditions are run. Is ever-greater ‘luxury’ tourism really compatible with Antarctica, even if that is what willing clients expect? Should we better manage client expectations so that facilities  and excursions are more in line with the adventure and rawness of nature that is emblematic – and a selling point – of Antarctica?

As one can read in the PECS guidelines, there are evolving issues with how we see, display and communicate our Antarctic expeditions, whether guided or not. The attitude we take, the language and words we use, all affect how Antarctica is perceived, how our actions are seen and how others will act in the near future.

We have a responsibility to prioritise transparency and integrity over claims of primacy, superiority or more traditional forms of ‘success’ ruled by numbers. To visit Antarctica as a guide, taking your team across terrain in a genuinely extreme environment, leaving no impact on that environment, then returning home all safe and happy, spreading to others the unique value of Antarctica, might be seen as the true measure of a successful expedition and what it means to guide well in Antarctica.

In Antarctica, the greatest success is leaving no trace — and getting everyone home safe.