The best mountaineers are not those who always push on, but those who know when to stop. John van Giel explores why turning back in time can be the strongest decision a mountaineer makes.
Corrosion, aging bolts and route safety are growing concerns in climbing areas worldwide, especially on Kalymnos. On the popular Greek climbing destination, the UIAA is working with local authorities to support rebolting efforts and improve long-term safety.
Over the past fifteen years, one-handed-tended self-lead belay systems have evolved significantly. Climbers such as Alex Huber, Fabian Buhl, Łukasz Dudek, and Keita Kurakami have pushed the boundaries, achieving lead solo redpoints of 8c and above. Inspired by their accomplishments, Brent Barghahn pursued his own system refinements, combining his background in product design with hands-on experimentation. This journey led to the creation of specialized lead rope solo accessories under his brand, Avant Climbing Innovations, accompanied by his personal milestone — an 8b+ lead solo redpoint completed along the system’s development. With the numerous and ever-changing options shared on the internet, we wanted an article offering a clear, proven method — one that has been used successfully on the rock. We asked Brent to sum up the most important LRS techniques for us. The refined system presented below brings together techniques from these leading climbers and other dedicated innovators.
In den Bergen unterwegs zu sein, ist gut für mich. Nicht in den Bergen unterwegs zu sein, ist gut für andere und die Natur ganz allgemein. Was also soll ich tun? Wie soll ich mich verhalten – meinen Mitmenschen und der Berg-Natur-Kultur-Landschaft gegenüber?
Rakchham ist ein abgelegenes Dorf tief im indischen Himalaya, auf 3120 Metern Höhe, das sich zu einem außergewöhnlichen Boulderparadies entwickelt hat. Über 560 Boulderprobleme in 14 Sektoren, eingebettet in eine spektakuläre Hochgebirgslandschaft, machen den Ort einzigartig. Der Tiroler Profikletterer Bernd Zangerl entdeckte Rakchham 2010 und erschloss das Gebiet über 15 Jahre hinweg gemeinsam mit Freunden – stets mit einem klaren Fokus auf Nachhaltigkeit und Respekt gegenüber Natur und lokaler Bevölkerung.
