A single ascent in 50 years

Tahu Rutum — also spelled Taa Hurutum in the local language — rises above the glaciers close to the Hispar region of Pakistan. The mountain’s dramatic, Patagonia-like profile has made it one of the most striking and elusive objectives in the Karakoram. Until this ascent, its summit had only been reached once before, by a Japanese team in 1977 via the southwest ridge.

For Vanhee, the story of the west face began in 2014, when he met the late American alpinist Kyle Dempster. Dempster, who disappeared in Pakistan in 2016, had attempted Tahu Rutum’s west face solo in 2008. During that extraordinary effort, he spent 23 days on the wall and reached a point just 200 metres below the summit before being forced to retreat.

Since hearing Dempster’s story, the mountain had remained fixed in Vanhee’s imagination.

In May 2026, Vanhee assembled a team with a wide range of skills: French alpinist Symon Welfringer, British trad climber Pete Whittaker, and Belgian big wall climbers Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee. The four climbers left Europe on 25 May for a 45-day expedition. However, when the team reached base camp, Whittaker developed altitude sickness and was forced to return home. Vanhee, Villanueva O’Driscoll and Welfringer continued as a team of three.

The most ridiculous line

On 15 June, the trio began climbing. Rather than taking the obvious glacial approach from the left, which would have led directly to the main wall, they chose to attack the lower rock face from the right, hoping to connect to the main spire via snow slopes. The decision committed them to a complex and energy-sapping line: eight initial pitches of loose rock, followed by steep snow traverses and difficult hauling terrain before they even reached the base of the main headwall.

“We chose the most ridiculous line, not a single alpinist would choose,” said Siebe Vanhee. “We attacked it big wall style, demanding hard work and energy. I cursed a few times — why are we hauling for 10 days on this kind of terrain? But this is what we do. It’s a big wall climber’s line at high altitude, and it was worth it.”

Because their objective was to free climb the face, the team adopted a capsule-style strategy, hauling portaledges and enough food, fuel and equipment for up to 15 days on the wall. The approach allowed them to stay on the wall through unstable weather and continue the ascent when the forecast improved.

“All in all, I think our strategy was the best, as we managed to make the most of weather windows that were split in two by a major three-day snowstorm. Thanks to the capsule style, we managed to stay on the wall and keep our effort going. The experience opened my eyes to a new style of climbing at altitude, and I think the possibilities are endless. I am already dreaming of other new lines with stunning free climbing”, said Symon Welfringer. 

7b above 6000 metres

By day 11, the team had established their fourth portaledge camp at the base of the main wall, at 6,260 metres. Although they had already endured more than a week and a half of difficult climbing, hauling and exposure, the steepest and most technical section of the route still lay above them.

On day 12, they fixed their 400 metres of static rope and climbed the most difficult section of the route: steep, overhanging terrain above 6,000 metres, with free climbing up to 7b. For the team, it was the highlight of the expedition. The following morning, despite exhaustion and seven consecutive days without rest, the weather remained stable enough to attempt the summit.

On 27 June, Vanhee, Villanueva O’Driscoll and Welfringer climbed back to their high point and continued to the top, reaching the summit in clear conditions with expansive views across the surrounding Karakoram peaks.

A close call

One of the most dramatic moments of the expedition came during the hauling on complex terrain, when a haul bag became stuck and Vanhee lowered down to free it. “Siebe lowered down to get the bag unstuck. Suddenly the haul line cut on a sharp edge. We all looked at each other in disbelief — somehow Siebe had managed to catch it before it fell. If it had fallen, it would have been the end of the ascent, as there was a lot of important equipment in that pig.”

The name The Leopard of Higher Ground honours both the mountain and Dempster’s legacy. In the local language, Taa Hurutum means “the home of the snow leopard”. Higher Ground Coffee was the name of the coffee shop Dempster owned in Salt Lake City. During their climb, the team’s line crossed Dempster’s 2008 solo attempt, and they found three of his old anchors on the face.

To the team’s knowledge, this is only the second ascent of Tahu Rutum and the first ascent of its west face. It is also the first time the mountain has been climbed since 1977.

About the climbers

Siebe Vanhee is a Belgian big wall free climber known for technical, adventurous ascents on some of the world’s most demanding walls. His climbing combines high-level free climbing with the patience and resilience of expedition big wall climbing. In 2024, he was part of the team that made the first team free ascent of Riders on the Storm on Torre Central in Torres del Paine, Patagonia — one of the most iconic alpine big wall routes in the world. He was also part of the first free ascent of El Regalo de Mwono on the same tower, and has completed hard European multi-pitch climbs including a rare one-day free ascent of Orbayu (8c, 500m) on Picu Urriellu in Spain.

Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll is a Belgian climber, alpinist and musician, widely recognised for his creative approach to big wall climbing, remote expeditions and exploratory alpinism. A two-time Piolets d’Or recipient, he was recognised for the 2010 Greenland Big Walls expedition and again for his extraordinary Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia, a solo south-to-north traverse of the range. Sean has spent decades opening difficult free climbs in wild places around the world, often combining serious climbing with music, humour and a deeply personal sense of adventure.

Symon Welfringer is a French alpinist and climber with extensive experience on technical alpine and high-altitude objectives, particularly in Pakistan’s Karakoram. In 2020, together with Pierrick Fine, he made the first ascent of the south face of Sani Pakkush via Revers Gagnant, an alpine-style ascent that was awarded a Piolet d’Or in 2021. He has also been part of exploratory expeditions to little-known regions of Pakistan, including the first ascent of Risht Peak in the Yarkhun Valley. His background combines high-level rock climbing, mixed climbing and modern exploratory alpinism.

Source: Patagonia press materials.