Jonas Schild climbs Joy Division (8b) in Val di Mello (IT)
The route is a combination of three existing lines, which were first free climbed in 2004 by local climbing legend Simone Pedeferri, albeit in several stages on different days. Over the past 20 years, there have been only a few known ascents, including those by James Pearson, Babsi Zangerl, and Jacopo Larcher.
challenges and prearrangements
The two spent three days on the wall, exploring the first nine pitches with difficulties up to 8b. They had to contend with difficult conditions, as the strong sun at this time of the year beats down on the wall until around 2 p.m.
This led to a clear strategy for the free climbing attempt: the ascent would take place over two days, including an overnight stay in a portaledge (hanging tent). The climbing time was set for the early morning hours, with a break at noon in the portaledge and a continuation of the climb from the afternoon until late in the evening.
The final attempt
On June 12, after a day of rest, they began their attempt. Schild completed the first and most difficult pitch before 7:00 a.m. Due to a fall and the increasing heat, Thomas Schmid gave up his own free climbing ambitions for the sake of the team.
However, they stuck to the tactic they had adopted from Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher, two of the most renowned big wall free climbers: pitches above 8a are climbed lead, below that the lead climber is changed. In total, Schild climbed 14 of the 20 pitches of this ascent. On the first day, they climbed up to the seventh pitch and mastered the second crux (8b).
The next day, they continued the ascent early in the morning. From the tenth pitch, they switched to the route “Con un piede in paradiso” for three pitches, as Babsi and Jacopo had done on their ascent. After another long lunch break in the portaledge and careful exploration, Schild managed to complete the eleventh and final difficult pitch with a difficulty rating of 8a (6b+/A1) without falling at 4 p.m.
They then continued their ascent in partly alpine conditions. After the 13th pitch, they switched to the “Melat” route for two pitches. Thanks to a rope they fixed, they were able to abseil down the same line and return to the portaledge they had left at the start of the 11th pitch. They mastered the last five pitches without any major difficulties and reached the summit as the last rays of sunshine disappeared. They then rappelled down in the dark and spent another night in the portaledge they had left behind to complete the rest of the climb the next morning.
Conclusion
“This experience was one of the most formative of my climbing career. The combination of intense climbing moments over so many pitches in a breathtaking landscape and the necessary teamwork made this experience unique,” Schild commented.
Jonas Schild
To free climb so many challenging meters in such a short time, and in such difficult conditions due to the heat and the exposure of the wall. Without Thomas’s brilliant support, this would not have been possible. Special thanks also go to Niccolo Bartoli, who lent us his portaledge and supported us in many ways, and to Babsi and Jacopo for their helpful last-minute tips. I’m already looking forward to my next trip to Val di Mello.
