How To: Lead Rope Solo
Over the past fifteen years, one-handed-tended self-lead belay systems have evolved significantly. Climbers such as Alex Huber, Fabian Buhl, Łukasz Dudek, and Keita Kurakami have pushed the boundaries, achieving lead solo redpoints of 8c and above. Inspired by their accomplishments, Brent Barghahn pursued his own system refinements, combining his background in product design with hands-on experimentation. This journey led to the creation of specialized lead rope solo accessories under his brand, Avant Climbing Innovations, accompanied by his personal milestone — an 8b+ lead solo redpoint completed along the system’s development. With the numerous and ever-changing options shared on the internet, we wanted an article offering a clear, proven method — one that has been used successfully on the rock. We asked Brent to sum up the most important LRS techniques for us. The refined system presented below brings together techniques from these leading climbers and other dedicated innovators.
