Corrosion, aging bolts and route safety are growing concerns in climbing areas worldwide, especially on Kalymnos. On the popular Greek climbing destination, the UIAA is working with local authorities to support rebolting efforts and improve long-term safety.
Over the past fifteen years, one-handed-tended self-lead belay systems have evolved significantly. Climbers such as Alex Huber, Fabian Buhl, Łukasz Dudek, and Keita Kurakami have pushed the boundaries, achieving lead solo redpoints of 8c and above. Inspired by their accomplishments, Brent Barghahn pursued his own system refinements, combining his background in product design with hands-on experimentation. This journey led to the creation of specialized lead rope solo accessories under his brand, Avant Climbing Innovations, accompanied by his personal milestone — an 8b+ lead solo redpoint completed along the system’s development. With the numerous and ever-changing options shared on the internet, we wanted an article offering a clear, proven method — one that has been used successfully on the rock. We asked Brent to sum up the most important LRS techniques for us. The refined system presented below brings together techniques from these leading climbers and other dedicated innovators.
In climbing, the safety of the climber and belayer depends heavily—particularly in the case of a large weight difference—on the control of the brake strand and the pulling force on the belayer during a fall. How brake assistants help to compensate for this difference and improve safety was investigated by DAV Safety Research in collaboration with the Chair of Biomechanics at the University of Bayreuth.
Alpine sport climbing routes are often abseiled. Such routes are often climbed with single ropes. An aid line can be used to retrieve a small haul bag and enables abseiling over the full rope length. Here we explain the problems and questions that frequently arise when abseiling with aid lines.
